Since Larbo is the fictional, larger-than-life alter ego of Laurence Mate, it's only appropriate that he appears sporting a full head of pepperoni dreadlocks.

Larbo came into being on a trip to Coahoma County, in the Mississippi delta to work for Habitat for Humanity, where I learned that everyone has a two-part name: Lucy-Ann, Jim-bo, etc. There, in the midst of great poverty and need, I discovered a wonderful community, the blues, and, of course, barbecue.

My barbecue initiation took place at Abe’s Bar-B-Q, located at the crossroads in Clarksdale, Mississippi, where legend has it that Robert Johnson sold his soul to the devil for his mastery of the guitar. Don’t bother making a pilgrimage; there’s precious little magic (black or not) at the crossroads anymore. Abe’s has new owners now, and the barbecue is mediocre at best. Instead of cooking over a real, “slow and low” barbecue pit, they roast their pork shoulders in a 350º oven, with an occasional piece of hickory wood.

In our fast food nation, the art of barbecue is dying out, as are other traditional ways of curing and preparing meat: country hams, really good bacon, fresh sausages, dry-cured and fermented salamis, pâtés, and terrines. I started making these for the simple reason that I couldn’t find them or afford them. Soon I was supplying friends, and in short order This Little Piggy was born to satisfy the growing demand.

This Little Piggy is dedicated to resurrecting, preserving, and furthering the craft of charcuterie, because great cured meats can contribute something special to mealtimes, and good meals contribute to the health of our bodies, our families, and our communities. As Wendell Berry has written, “how we eat determines, to a considerable extent, how the world is used.” If we want the world to be well-used, one place to start is by learning how to eat well, which means learning to eat with a fuller appreciation of the sacrifice and the skill that goes into bringing good food to the table.

For more information about This Little Piggy and the foods it offers,
contact Laurence Mate at laurence@thislittlepiggy.us